Kyrgyzstan was one of those trips that stays with you. I led a WeRoad expedition through the heart of Central Asia: nights in yurts under huge skies, horses on high pastures, red canyons that look like Mars and lakes hidden between snowy peaks.
It's an expedition, not a comfortable road trip. Expect long drives on mountain roads, shared yurts with basic bathrooms and very little phone signal. In exchange you get some of the most untouched landscapes I've ever seen, and incredibly warm hospitality.
Itinerary
9 days is enough to loop from Bishkek around Lake Issyk-Kul, up to Song-Kul and down to the China border. Driving times are approximate and depend on the roads and weather.
Day 1 – Welcome to Bishkek
Arrival in the capital, where Soviet architecture meets Central Asian markets. Quick walk around the centre and the local bazaar, then a welcome dinner to try plov, laghman and manti.
Day 2 – Konorchek Canyon & Burana Tower
Leave the city behind towards Lake Issyk-Kul. Stop at the 11th-century Burana Tower, one of the last traces of the Silk Road city of Balasagun, then hike through the red walls of Konorchek Canyon. First night in a yurt camp.
Day 3 – Skazka Canyon & Jeti-Oguz
Drive along the south shore of Issyk-Kul, one of the largest alpine lakes in the world. Walk through Skazka, the "Fairytale Canyon", with its red, orange and yellow rock shapes, then continue to the Jeti-Oguz valley and its "Seven Bulls" red cliffs.
Day 4 – Eagle hunters of Issyk-Kul
One of the highlights of the trip: a traditional eagle hunting demonstration. The berkutchi (eagle hunters) train golden eagles to hunt from horseback, a tradition passed down for centuries. Afternoon by the lake.
Day 5 – Up to Song-Kul Lake
A long, beautiful drive up to Song-Kul, a lake at about 3,000m surrounded by summer pastures where nomadic families bring their herds. Night in a yurt by the shore, with more stars than you can imagine.
Day 6 – Horseback expedition at Song-Kul
Horseback ride across the jailoo (high pastures) with local horsemen. Time to slow down, drink kymyz (fermented mare's milk) if you dare, and watch life in the yurt camps.
Day 7 – Tash Rabat & the Ak-Sai Valley
Drive south to Tash Rabat, a 15th-century stone caravanserai where Silk Road traders used to shelter. Continue towards the remote Ak-Sai valley near the China border, under the Kakshaal-Too range.
Day 8 – Trek to Köl-Suu Lake
A 5-hour excursion to Köl-Suu, one of the most spectacular alpine lakes in the country, a long turquoise lake squeezed between vertical cliffs. Border permits are needed, so this is organised with the local guide.
Day 9 – Back to Bishkek
Long drive back to the capital for a last night together and a farewell dinner. Departures the next day.
Practical tips
- Currency: the Kyrgyz som (KGS). Cards work in Bishkek, but carry cash for everything outside the capital.
- Yurt life: yurts are shared (up to 5 people) with shared bathrooms. Bring a headlamp, power bank and a warm sleeping layer: nights at Song-Kul are cold even in August.
- Altitude: Song-Kul and Ak-Sai are around 3,000m. Drink plenty of water and take it easy on the first day up.
- Permits: Köl-Suu is in the border zone, so you need a permit arranged in advance.
- Etiquette: accept tea and bread when offered, and don't step on the threshold of a yurt.
Budget
Kyrgyzstan is very affordable once you're there. Most of the cost goes on private transport with a driver and guide, because distances are long and the mountain roads need experience. Outside Bishkek, everything runs on cash.
Return flights
From London to Bishkek with one layover (e.g. via Istanbul).
700€
Travel Insurance
Remember to always have your insurance when you travel. I normally get an annual MultiTrip so it covers me all year round.
50€
Food
Breakfasts are included; lunches and dinners in local cafés and yurt camps are cheap.
150€
Local Transport
Private minibus with driver and English-speaking guide from day 2 to day 8.
400€
Accommodation
4 nights in yurts and 4 nights in guesthouses or hotels in shared rooms.
350€
Entry fees & Excursions
Eagle hunting demonstration, horseback ride at Song-Kul, Köl-Suu excursion and border permit, entry fees and tips.
150€
Total:
1.800€
Photos: Unsplash and Wikimedia Commons (Creative Commons licences).
