This summer I led a WeRoad group across Mongolia, from the Gobi desert to the green valleys of the centre. Not many places feel as wild and open as this one. You get endless steppe, singing sand dunes and nights in traditional gers (yurts), and the nomadic families who host you are some of the warmest people I've met.
Travelling here means a lot of off-road driving. Roads aren't really roads: most of the route is open steppe track, bumpy dirt and the odd river crossing. That turns out to be one of the best parts of the trip, because those tracks take you to places tour buses can't reach.
Itinerary
10 days is enough to see the very best of the Gobi and Central Mongolia. Driving times are approximate and depend on weather and road conditions.
Day 1 – Welcome to Ulaanbaatar
Arrival in the capital. In the evening, catch the Tumen Ekh Ensemble show (throat singing, folk songs and traditional dance) for about 60,000 MNT (~$17). Tickets are first come, first served, so get to the box office about an hour early. Welcome dinner at INDE.
Day 2 – Into the Steppe: Tsagaan Suvarga
~470km, 7–9h. An early start heading south through the steppe towards the Gobi, with a supermarket stop to stock up on the way. In the late afternoon, walk along the striking eroded cliffs of Tsagaan Suvarga (the "White Stupa"). First night in a ger camp.
Day 3 – Canyon of Ice: Yolyn Am
~220km, 4–5h. Drive into the Gurvan Saikhan mountains for a guided hike through Yolyn Am, a deep, narrow gorge that keeps ice well into summer.
Day 4 – The Sands that Sing: Khongoryn Els
~180km, 4–5h. Cross the desert to the Khongoryn Els dunes, known as the "Singing Dunes" for the sound the sand makes in the wind. Camel ride at sunset, then dinner at a family-run desert ger camp.
Day 5 – Cliffs of Fire: Bayanzag
~300km, 6–7h. Off-road drive to Bayanzag, the Flaming Cliffs, where the first dinosaur eggs were discovered. Go in the evening, when the red sandstone glows at sunset.
Day 6 – Steppe to Soul: Orkhon Valley
~300km, 7–8h. The longest drive of the trip, heading north into the green landscapes of Central Mongolia (the last 20km are very off-road and muddy). Arrival at a nomadic family stay for two nights, with a traditional dinner.
Day 7 – Horses and Waterfalls
Morning hike along the Orkhon River to the waterfall (~8km), a horse ride across the valley, and an afternoon helping the family with their daily chores. This was my favourite day of the trip.
Day 8 – Echoes of Empire: Karakorum
~120km, ~3h. Drive to Kharkhorin, site of the ancient Mongol capital. Visit Erdene Zuu Monastery and the Karakorum Museum.
Day 9 – Elsen Tasarkhai & back to Ulaanbaatar
~360km, 5–6h. Pass the "Mini Gobi" dunes of Elsen Tasarkhai on the way back to the capital. Optional detour to the giant Chinggis Khan Statue, then souvenir shopping and a farewell dinner at the Chojin Temple restaurant.
Day 10 – Farewell, Mongolia
Lots of hugs, and flights home.
Good to know
Currency. The Mongolian Tögrög (MNT) is a closed currency, so take money out at ATMs when you arrive. Cards work in Ulaanbaatar, but ger camps, markets and the countryside are cash only.
Connectivity. Get an eSIM (I use Airalo) or a local MobiCom/Unitel SIM card. Expect long stretches with no signal.
Packing. Bring layers: days can reach 30°C and nights drop to around 10°C. Also pack a headlamp, a power bank, a towel, wet wipes, a strong sunscreen, sunglasses for the dust, and a 40–60L backpack rather than a suitcase.
Etiquette. Accept tea and food with your right hand, never step on the threshold of a ger, try the airag (fermented mare's milk), walk clockwise around stupas, and never take fossils from Bayanzag.
Gifts for host families. Pencils, notebooks or sweets for the children, and hand cream or sewing kits for the adults.
Budget
Mongolia is affordable once you're there, but transport makes up a big part of the cost because of the huge distances and off-road driving. Outside Ulaanbaatar everything runs on cash. Food and homestays are cheap, and a private 4x4 with an experienced driver is essential.
Return flights
From London to Ulaanbaatar with one layover (e.g. via Istanbul).
900€
Travel Insurance
Remember to always have your insurance when you travel. I normally get an annual MultiTrip so it covers me all year round.
50€
Food
This includes breakfast, lunch and dinner for 10 days, plus snacks for the long driving days.
150€
Local Transport
Private minivan with driver for the whole route (~2,000km), fuel, tolls and airport transfers.
500€
Accommodation
Hotel in Ulaanbaatar, ger camps across the Gobi, and 2 nights with a nomadic family in the Orkhon Valley.
500€
Entry fees & Excursions
Tumen Ekh show, national park fees, Erdene Zuu Monastery, Karakorum Museum, camel and horse riding, and tips for drivers and guides.
